Summer Ratatouille

Succotash and ratatouille are two of my favorite summer vegetable dishes. There are many parallels between the two including they are a great way to use up the bounteous crops of the season, extremely versatile, and not to mention have great names! My succotash posting in June was a hit, and as summer nears its end, I thought I’d come up with a ratatouille dish, inspired by the fresh and sweet vegetables at the farmers market.

“Ratatouille perfumes the kitchen with the essence of Provence and is certainly one of the great Mediterranean dishes.” -Julia Child, Mastering the Art of French Cooking

Traditional ratatouille is composed of a medley of eggplant, tomato, summer squash, bell peppers, onion, garlic, and herbs. The dish originated is southern France at some point in the 16^th century (don’t forget that the tomato wasn’t introduced to Europe until after the Spanish conquistadores brought the seeds home!). Ratatouille became remarkably popular due to its simplicity and versatility. It is traditionally served as a side dish, either hot or cold, often accompanied by meat. I have also seen the vegetable medley used as a savory filling for crepes or omelets.

In France, there is some debate on how to make a traditional ratatouille. Julia Child contended that the vegetables should be sautéed separately in olive oil and then layered in a casserole and baked. Others prefer a simpler approach of sautéing the vegetables together. My simple approach is a combination of the two.

In my recipe, the vegetables are chopped rather small, and simmered down to a stew-like consistency. To keep with the French theme, I serve the ratatouille with a poached egg over a crusty slice of bread (pain au levain is my absolute favorite). The textures and flavors pair wonderfully and is definitely a summer dish to make over and over.

Summer Ratatouille with a Poached Egg

This recipe is extremely versatile and can be adapted to your liking. Feel free to throw in any other summer vegetables that you have on hand. I used a variety of zucchini, crookneck and pattypan squash, and a couple of smaller Japanese eggplants.

Serves 4.

1 lb eggplant, cut into small cubes

1 lb summer squash, cut into small cubes (any type will do)

¼ cup olive oil

1 large onion, diced

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1 large red bell pepper, diced

1 ½ lbs tomatoes, chopped

¼ mixed fresh herbs such as parsley, oregano, thyme and basil and/or ½ teaspoon Herbs de Provence

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon white vinegar

4 large organic eggs

4 large thick slices French bread, toasted (pain au levain is highly recommended)

1. Salt eggplant if necessary and set aside (see eggplant parmesan stacks).

2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet and when hot, add eggplant and zucchini. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are golden and cooked through, about 10 minutes. Set aside.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a deep skillet. Add onions and garlic and cook over medium heat until golden, about 8 minutes. Add bell pepper and tomato and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until cooked through and thickened, about 20 minutes. Add eggplant and zucchini the last 5 minutes of cooking. Stir in herbs and season with salt and pepper.

4. Pour enough water in a large skillet to reach a depth of 1½ inches; add 1 teaspoon salt and bring to a simmer. Stir in vinegar. Crack an egg into a small bowl and carefully slide it into the simmering water. Repeat with remaining eggs. Simmer over low heat until whites are set but yolks are soft, about 3 minutes.

5. To serve, top each slice of bread with a poached egg and generously spoon ratatouille on top. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Eggplant Parmesan Stacks

Eggplant, or aubergine in Europe, is a vegetable with a long history, valued for its beauty as well as its unique flavor and texture. Eggplant was introduced to Europe in the 14th century by China, but it would not be until centuries later, when new varieties were developed, that the eggplant would assimilate itself into the Mediterranean cuisine as a fundamental ingredient. The early variety was actually quite bitter and some even suspected it to be the cause of insanity and leprosy!

Summertime eggplants are ubiquitous in the European kitchen, when they are at peak freshness—sweet and mild with inconspicuous seeds and no trace of bitterness. There are many varieties of eggplant but most of us are accustomed to the large, round, deep purple type. You can find the most interesting varieties at farmers’ markets: ranging in shape—round to oblong, size—2 inches to 12 inches long, and color—white, green, magenta, lavender and even striped. As a general rule, the lighter the color, the milder the flavor. Larger eggplants may also have thicker, tougher skin, which can be peeled at your discretion.

When enjoying the season’s eggplant, look for smooth, firm and glossy skin and a bright green stem, which indicate freshness. Eggplants deteriorate more rapidly at room temperature and will begin to develop bitterness overtime. The eggplant perishes quickly once its inner flesh is exposed to air; leave it whole until you are ready to use.

Eggplants have a dense, spongy texture and are a fine substitute in meatless dishes. They are quite versatile and can be broiled, grilled, fried, roasted, and stir-fried. One of my favorite spreads is baba ghanouj, a delicious additional to sandwiches, or as a dip for pita bread and veggies. Eggplant is also great in pasta and casseroles and of course, is the key ingredient of eggplant parmesan, or parmigiani di melanzane, a classic preparation in southern Italy.

To salt of not to salt? Salting is often used to tenderize the flesh’s texture, lower its capacity to absorb oil, and remove bitterness. Simply sprinkle eggplant slices with salt and allow to rest on paper towels for 30 minutes. Blot dry and rinse to remove the salt. Chances are, if you buy eggplant fresh, in season at the farmers’ market, it won’t need any salting. Fresh eggplant is always best, with a delicate, spongy texture and hardly a trace of bitterness.

Eggplant Parmesan Stacks

This is my take on eggplant parmesan. Instead of frying the eggplant, I opted for a lighter method of coating the slices in egg whites and bread crumbs. Whole wheat bread crumbs are easy to make : tear up bread into pieces, toast on low until thoroughly dried out, and pulse in a food processor. My "stacked" version, with a modest amount of cheese, makes for a nice presentation. The prosciutto is optional (the dish is substantial as is), but is a light way to incorporate a hint of meat for those who prefer it. Serve with warm crusty bread, pasta, and a light summer salad.

Serves 4

12 eggplant rounds, each 1/4-inch thick (from 1-2 eggplants depending on size)

2 egg whites

¾ cup fine dry breadcrumbs

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon pepper

1 - 14 ½ oz can organic tomatoes—diced or whole

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh basil leaves

2 tablespoons olive oil

3½ ounces mozzarella, thinly sliced into 12 pieces (fresh is optimal)

4 slices of prosciutto, cut in half (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 400F. Salt eggplant if desired (see section above).

2. In a shallow dish, whisk egg whites until frothy. In another shallow dish, combine breadcrumbs, ¼ cup Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. Dip eggplant slices into egg-whites, then coat with breadcrumb mixture. Arrange eggplant in a single layer on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Bake about 25 minutes until crisp and golden, turning slices over half way through baking time.

3. Meanwhile, puree tomatoes in a blender or food processor; remove any large chunks. Bring to a boil in a heavy small saucepan; reduce heat to medium and simmer until thickened, about 20 minutes. Add garlic, oil and basil; simmer 5 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat.

4. Place 4 slices of eggplant on baking sheet. Top each slice with 1-2 tablespoons sauce, a mozzarella slice, and a half prosciutto slice if using. Repeat layering twice (omitting prosciutto for the last layering). Sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup parmesan evenly over the mozzarella.

5. Bake 12 minutes, until bubbly. Serve immediately.

Lebanese Cooking with Pomegranate Molasses

I bet many people don't realize that some of the most well-known and beloved Middle Eastern dishes in our country are an integral part of the traditional Lebanese cuisine. You have probably heard of and tasted baba ghanouj, hummus and tabbouleh and maybe even kibbeh (bulgur cake) and fattoush (salad with toasted pita). Lebanese food is absolutely delicious and has much in common with that of other Middle Eastern countries, namely Jordan, Syria, Turkey and Palestine---all of which were once part of the Ottoman empire.

The food of Lebanon is particularly known for its use of legumes (garbanzos and lentils), grains (bulgur and rice), lemon, olive oil, yogurt, pomegranate, herbs (parsley and mint), and spices (sumac, cinnamon, cumin). Also, the use of fresh, seasonal vegetables plays an important role in Lebanese cuisine; some of the most prominent include eggplant, bell pepper, cucumber, tomato, zucchini, and spinach.

An important tradition during family gatherings is the practice of mezze--an array of small dishes and appetizers served with drinks. The tradition of mezze has a long history and remains a favorite aspect of the Lebanese meal. It's hard to imagine why not: a variety of tasty foods with different flavors and textures, served with warm, pita-like bread (khobz halabi), accompanied with olives, tomatoes, cucumbers and radishes. This practice is similar to the Spanish tapas or the Italian antipasto.

I have found that the best guide to the cuisine of Lebanon (as well as Morocco and Turkey) is Claudia Roden's Arabesque cookbook. Roden provides the most delicious and traditional recipes of the regions, and gives the reader a picturesque insight into its domestic culture and culinary history.
A distinct ingredient of Lebanese cooking is pomegranate molasses. It is basically the juice of sour pomegranates, boiled down until it is a thick syrup. Pomegranate molasses lends a rich, tart flavor to many traditional dishes and pairs especially well with eggplant and tomatoes. You can find it at most specialty grocery stores, and in fact, Trader Joe's has begun to carry a product called pomegranate syrup which is similar in taste.

The first recipe I want to share with you is one of the best lentil dishes I have tasted. It was published in Food and Wine by Musa Dagdeviren, chef-owner of three famous kebab houses in Istanbul. The recipe calls for a generous amount of pomegranate molasses, which is drizzled over a stew of lentils, eggplant, tomatoes and green chilies. I love the way that the ingredients are layered so that the flavors and textures of the different ingredients stay distinct.


Eggplant and Lentil Stew with Pomegranate Molasses
From Food and Wine
Serves 6.

One 1 1/2-pound long, narrow eggplant
Salt
1/2 cup lentils
Water
2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
2 long green chiles, such as Anaheims—stemmed, seeded and coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1/4 cup pomegranate molasses

1. Partially peel the eggplant so it has lengthwise stripes, then cut it lengthwise into 4 slices. Score each slice on 1 side in a crosshatch pattern. Cut each slice crosswise into 3 pieces and set on a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt. Let stand for 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, cover the lentils with 2 inches of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to moderate and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain the lentils.
3. Coat a small enameled cast-iron casserole with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. In a bowl, toss the onion with the garlic, tomatoes, green chiles, mint, tomato paste, crushed red pepper and 2 teaspoons of salt.
4. Rinse the eggplant and pat dry. Spread 1/2 cup of the vegetable mixture in the casserole and top with half of the eggplant. Cover with half of the lentils and half of the remaining vegetable mixture. Top with the remaining eggplant, lentils and vegetables. Pour the remaining olive oil around the side and over the vegetables, then drizzle with the pomegranate molasses.
5. Bring the stew to a boil. Cover and cook over low heat until the eggplant is very tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

The other recipe I want to share is my own creation, based on the traditional flavors of Lebanon. Spicy arugula, tomatoes and roasted eggplant are dressed with a tangy pomegranate molasses dressing and topped with feta crumbles and fresh mint and parsley.



Lebanese Salad in Lavash
This recipe is perfect for lunch or a light dinner. The salad can also be served in a bowl with warm flat bread on the side. I enjoyed mine with a side of crunchy Persian cucumbers and tabbouleh.

Makes 4 half wraps.
Serves 2-4.

1 large eggplant
extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 clove garlic, minced
2 9 x 10-inch sheets of lavash
1 cup arugula
1 medium tomato, thinly sliced
2-3 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
1/4 cup fresh mint, minced
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil and brush with olive oil.
2. Peel eggplant and cut crosswise into slices about 1/2-inch thick. Place on prepared baking sheet; brush with oil and sprinkle with salt. Bake about 30 minutes, until soft and browned.
3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl whisk together pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, garlic, and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
4. For each wrap, arrange 1 sheet of lavash on a work surface and use half the ingredients. Arrange arugula down the center, followed by roasted eggplant and tomatoes. Top with feta cheese and chopped herbs. Drizzle with dressing. Wrap tightly and cut in half.