Exploring the Regional Cuisine of Hawaii

I just got back from a great trip to Kauai, Hawaii with my boyfriend Justin and his family. Sun, sand, good food, and outdoor activities are definitely my idea of a perfect vacation.

Kauai, also known as the “Garden Isle”, is the oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands and receives some of the most rainfall in the world. Mount Waialeale, at the heart of the island, receives up to 400 inches of rain per year! Where we stayed on the South Shore, however, we saw nothing but warm breezes and sunny skies.

One of my most memorable activities was visiting Kauai’s breathtaking Na Pali coast, which extends along the northwest side of the island. The coastline can only be seen by sea, air or hiking so we set out on a rafting tour adventure to witness the incredible views. And an adventure it was—fast, wet and bumpy, but well worth it. The spectacular coastlines are the result of millions of years of wind and water erosion with soaring cliffs, lush valleys, waterfalls, sea caves and some of the best snorkeling I’ve ever done.

In 1992, Hurricane Iniki was the worst hurricane to strike the area in recorded history and devastated much of the island. It had an effect on the island’s ecosystem, uprooting many agricultural crops, and destroying many domestic chicken farms. Years later, visitors will find thousands of wild chickens clucking, crowing and pecking throughout the island. With few natural predators, they are bound to remain significant inhabitants of the island.

As one can imagine, the land in Kauai is very fertile and home to a variety of agricultural crops. During the plantation era, sugar cane, pineapple, coffee and macadamia nuts were discovered to be profitable crops by U.S. landowners. Cheap labor was brought in from China, and other immigrants followed, namely from Japan, Korea, the Philippines, and Portugal. Each of these groups introduced flavors and ingredients from their homelands.

Unfortunately the methods used to grow the mass-produced crops relied heavily on pesticides and depleted the soil of much of its nutrients. Recently, there has been a movement to revive sustainable and organic farming throughout Hawaii. After doing some research, I learned that in the 1980’s, acclaimed chefs Peter Merriman and Alan Wong helped to pioneer a regional cuisine that uses fresh local ingredients. Since then, community efforts to eat locally and sustainably have flourished.

Farmers are now growing a variety of crops including taro root, pineapple, chocolate, coffee, guava, mango, banana, coconut, lettuce, cucumber, pikake (Hawaiian jasmine) and gardenia.

The modern cuisine of Hawaii is a fusion of many ethnic flavors, often incorporating fresh fish and unique foods grown on the islands. I have been inspired by the push for a regional cuisine using local ingredients and set out to create my own take on a fresh, healthy dish that employs the unique flavors of Hawaii. I encourage you to try this recipe—the combination of sweet, tart and spicy, paired with crisp vegetables and flaky, moist mahi mahi makes for a tasty and satisfying meal.

Macadamia-Coconut Crusted Mahi Mahi with Banana Salsa
over Baby Greens with Citrus Dressing

The spicy banana salsa, paired with the sweet and crunchy macadamia-coconut crust truly makes the meal. Use bananas that are deep yellow and still firm. An overripe banana would likely overpower the dish. If you'd like, you could substitute the banana with other tropical fruits such as mango or papaya.

For Mahi Mahi

Juice of 1 lime
1 Tbsp soy sauce
4 (6-ounce) skinless mahi mahi fillets
Salt and freshly ground pepper
½ cup roasted, salted macadamia nuts
3 Tbsp unsweetened flaked coconut
3 Tbsp plain bread crumbs
1 organic egg
1 Tbsp unsalted butter

For Banana Salsa

1/2 jalapeño, minced
1-2 Tbsp grated fresh ginger
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 cup red onion, minced
1 Tbsp brown sugar
1 Tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 Tbsp fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
1⁄4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Dash of cayenne pepper (optional)
1/4 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped
1 medium banana, sliced in half lengthwise and chopped into small cubes

For Mixed Greens

4 large handfuls organic baby mixed greens
3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of ½ lime plus ½ teaspoon finely grated lime zest
Juice of ½ orange plus ½ tsp finely grated orange zest
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cucumber, thinly sliced on a diagonal

1. Arrange mahi mahi on a large platter and pour lime juice and soy sauce over fillets. Turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator to marinate for no longer than 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, combine the salsa ingredients in a small bowl. Toss gently to combine and set aside at room temperature.
3. In a food processor, blend macadamia nuts, coconut, and bread crumbs until nuts are ground coarsely. Place ingredients in a shallow bowl. Beat egg in another shallow bowl. Set aside.
4. Prepare the citrus dressing: whisk together olive oil, lime juice, orange juice and zests. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Remove mahi mahi from refrigerator and pat dry. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat.
6. Dip each fillet in egg, and then in macadamia-coconut mixture so that it is thoroughly coated. Place in skillet. Cook over medium heat approximately 8 minutes on each side or until mahi mahi is cooked through. Reduce heat to low if coating begins to burn. Do not overcook.
7. Drizzle citrus dressing over mixed greens and toss to coat. Divide among 4 plates and top with mahi mahi. Spoon on salsa and garnish with cucumber.

My Sister's Graduation Fiesta

On Saturday May 16, my family hosted a graduation party for my younger sister Renee. This post is dedicated to her.
Special thanks to Rhys Stover for all the fabulous photos.

After all those late nights finishing assignments and cramming for tests she had finally done it--Renee graduated from college. Her achievements as a student, as well as her personal integrity, passion and commitment demonstrate that she will do great things in life. I am convinced that some day she will become a big name in the film industry, living the life in NYC.

The graduates, Renee and her boyfriend Rhys

Graduation is definitely a time to celebrate with a big bash and who better to host it than your own loving family? Naturally, being the family cook I was designated the chef de cuisine. This meant that it was entirely up to me to come up with a menu that is crowd pleasing, delicious, and reflects our unique upbringing on the Mexican border. I am quite familiar with the graduate’s palate, as it is similar to mine, so it was relatively easy to agree on a super traditional, rustic Mexican menu with the freshest ingredients. I will point out now that I could not have done this alone. The preparation and cooking was definitely a team effort, especially with the help of my awesome sous chefs, my Mom and sister Dani.

When it comes to traditional Mexican cooking, the cookbooks of Rick Bayless and Diana Kennedy are virtually infallible. These two Mexican culinary experts have exposed the world to true Mexican food, which is remarkably varied and rich, unlike the monotonous, greasy versions available at many U.S. restaurants. As with other national cuisines, Mexican food varies by region depending on local climate and geography, as well as ethnic differences among indigenous inhabitants and the degree of Spanish or other cultural influences.

Traditional Mexican food was heated over an open fire with cast iron or ceramic pots. Nuts, seeds and spices were ground by hand in a molcajete (mortar and pestle) and added to sauces. Tomato and avocado salsas, corn tortillas, beans, tamales, tropical fruits, chilies and chocolate were sold in the Aztec market places. It wasn’t until the conquistadores arrived in what is now Mexico City that beef, chicken, dairy, garlic, rice and wheat were introduced to the cuisine. With an array of flavorful ingredients, the early natives got to work on perfecting regional Mexican dishes that still thrive today.

Mole has become known as the national dish of Mexico and is usually associated with the regions of Puebla and Oaxaca. Mole poblano—the famous rich, thick, chocolate-tinged sauce—is a combination of the flavors of Mexican history. The term mole actually means concoction and its origin remains disputed—many believe that it was a fortuitous accident. It is not unheard of for mole recipes to call for more than 30 ingredients which are all pounded, blended and simmered together to make a thick, flavorful sauce. Many Mexican women have their own mole recipe, which was passed down from her mother. Historically, the recipes were usually made in large batches and the final step involved taking the mole to neighborhood grinders or molinos to form a smooth sauce.

The cultivation of beans in Mexican history happened early on, with ample protein to sustain growing populations. In fact, cultivation began around 5000 B.C. and along with corn, completed the staple diet of the indigenous people. Contrary to what many people believe, there are many regional variations in the preparation and type of beans. Mexican food is not always accompanied by refried beans! Pink and pinto beans are popular in the north and black beans are more common in the south of Mexico. Personally, one of my favorite meals is a big bowl of slow-cooked frijoles de la olla with some kind of grain (rice, quinoa, barley, etc). Below is a description of the menu for the party.

Appetizers

Guacamole with chopped tomatoes, onions, jalapenos and cilantro see recipe below
Rick Bayless's Roasted Tomato-Jalapeno Salsa click here for the recipe
Tortilla Chips
Zanahorias y ajo en escabeche (Spicy pickled carrots and garlic) see recipe below

Main dishes

Rick Bayless's Peanut Mole Enchiladas with Braised Greens and Potatoes click here for the recipe
Diana Kennedy's pork stew in red chili sauce click here for the recipe
Tamales (shredded beef and green corn)

Sides

Frijoles negros refritos ("refried" black beans) see recipe below
Arroz verde (green rice) click here for the recipe
Salad with mixed greens, red onion, oranges and jicama

Dessert

Mexican wedding cookies see recipe below
Mexican chocolate crackle cookies from Sur la Table's The Art and Soul of Baking by Cindy Mushet
Very tangy lime bars from Pure Dessert by Alice Medrich


Guacamole with chopped tomatoes, onions, jalapenos and cilantro

Serves 4-6

2 ripe Hass avocadoes
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
½ small white onion, finely diced
1 clove garlic, minced
½ medium tomato, diced
¼ cup cilantro, chopped
½ jalapeno, finely chopped
Freshly ground pepper

1. Cut avocadoes in half and scoop out the flesh into a medium bowl. Mash avocado until smooth and creamy. Stir in salt and lime juice.
3. Rinse onion under cold water to reduce its potency.
4. Add the remaining ingredients. Taste and season with additional salt, pepper or lime juice if desired.

Zanahorias y ajo en escabeche (Spicy pickled carrots and garlic)

¼ cup olive oil
2 bay leaves
5 black peppercorns
1 tablespoon dried oregano
3 cloves garlic coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons salt
1-7 ounce can whole pickled jalapenos, with juices reserved
1 lb carrots, sliced diagonally about ½ inch thick
2 yellow onions, sliced about 1/8 inch thick
25 whole garlic cloves, peeled
2 cups cider vinegar

1. Heat oil in a large pot. Add bay leaves and peppercorns and cook 1-2 minutes, stirring occasionally (do not let bay leaves brown). Reduce heat and stir in oregano and chopped garlic, stir until garlic is slightly golden.
2. Add salt, jalapeno juice, carrots and enough water to cover by 1 inch. Simmer for 5 minutes until carrots soften but are still crunchy.
3. Remove from heat and add onions, jalapenos, garlic, and vinegar. Stir to combine and allow to cool. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours for best results.

Frijoles Negros Refritos

This is the best recipe that I have come up with for cooking black beans--it is very flavorful and much lighter than traditional refried beans cooked with lard. The epazote is not essential but adds a wonderful, unique flavor to traditional Mexican black beans. You can find dried epazote at specialty Mexican markets or Whole Foods. I love having a pot of beans on hand. These black beans are delicious in a bowl with brown rice, avocado and salsa or spread on a crunchy corn tortilla.

1 lb dried black beans, washed and picked over
1 medium onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons dried epazote, tied in cheesecloth
1-2 teaspoons salt, to taste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Crumbled queso fresco (optional)

1. Place beans in large stockpot and add water to cover by 2 inches. Stir in onion, garlic, and epazote in cheesecloth. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until beans are tender, about 2 hours. Every 30 minutes stir gently and add more water to make sure beans are covered by at least 1-2 inches.
2. When beans are just about tender add 1 teaspoon salt and simmer 15 minutes. Remove from heat. Discard epazote.
3. Drain beans, reserving cooking liquid. In same pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add beans and fry in oil about 2 minutes. Begin to mash beans, gradually adding cooking liquid until beans are slightly soupy. Add additional salt to taste. Top with queso fresco.

Mexican Wedding Cookies

Originally introduced to Mexico by Spanish explorers in the 16th century, these shortbread cookies are enjoyed during special celebrations in Mexico, such as weddings, quincenieras, baptisms and religious holidays.

Makes 2 dozen

1 stick unsalted butter, softened
¼ cup confectioners’ sugar
Pinch of salt
1⁄2 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup walnuts or pecans, lightly toasted and then finely ground
½ cup confectioners’ sugar for dusting and rolling

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Cream butter until fluffy. Add confectioners' sugar, salt and vanilla; beat until smooth.
2. Gradually stir in flour. Add the nuts and mix until just incorporated.
3. Shape dough into 1" balls. Place about 1" apart on a cookie sheet and bake 15 minutes or until edges are lightly brown, turning sheet half way through so that cookies bake evenly.
4. Once the cookies have cooled slightly, roll in confectioners' sugar.

Additional pictures...

The Versatile Beet

Many people don’t realize that the greens of the beetroot are edible and actually quite good and nutritious. In fact, the greens of the wild beet were a very popular food among ancient civilizations in Europe, Asia and the Middle East; the roots were valued only for medicinal purposes. The beetroot and chard come from the same family and have similar characteristics, with the exception of one minor feature…a fleshy, succulent, plump root attached at the base, or what most people have come to know as the beet.

It was not until the sixteenth century that people began to consume beet roots as a vegetable. Europeans began to cultivate different forms and its popularity spread eastward, becoming a staple food in regions like Poland, Russia and Scandinavia. Even today, the beetroot remains an important feature of the traditional cuisines of Eastern Europe (borscht anyone?)

Around the same time in France, “a kind of parsnip” that has a “very red and rather fat root with thick leaves, and all of it is good to eat” (French agronomist Olivier de Serres, 1629) began to gain popularity and was known as the Roman beet. In one of the earliest books of modern French cookery, it was recommended that beets be prepared in the following way: peeled, cut into rounds, and fried in butter and a chopped onion and a dash of vinegar. Sounds tasty…

Beets are practically a staple food for me: they are available year round, extremely versatile, loaded with antioxidants, and deliciously sweet. Plus, if I buy the whole plant, I get my greens to cook with too! Beet roots can be eaten raw, boiled, steamed, roasted or sautéed. My personal favorite is roasted beets, as the process allows them to impart a soft, buttery texture and a robust, earthy flavor.

I happened to pick up some golden beets at a local produce market and thought I’d share one of my favorite roasted beet salad recipes. The citrus and mint pair very nicely with the tender beets and add a nice early spring twist.

Roasted Beet Salad with Citrus and Mint

I used blood oranges, but any type of sweet citrus would work well—try navel oranges or grapefruit. Goat cheese or blue cheese would make a nice substitution for the feta if you would prefer. Of course, any color of beet would work well here. The striped beets are especially eye-appealing--try them if you ever come across any.

Serves 4

4 medium beets
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice
2 oranges, peeled and separated into segments
¼ cup mint leaves, chopped
1 shallot, thinly sliced
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Fresh baby spinach leaves or mixed greens (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut the greens from the beets, leaving a 1/4 inch stub of the stems. Scrub the beets and place them in a baking dish. Cover tightly with foil and roast for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until tender and can be easily penetrated with a fork, about 45 to 60 minutes, depending on the size. Cut away the ends and slip off the skins under cool running water. Cut into small wedges. Set aside to cool.

2. Whisk together the balsamic vinegar, olive oil and orange juice. Season with salt and pepper.

3. In a large bowl toss the beets together with the orange segments, mint and shallots. Drizzle the dressing over and toss to combine. If serving over spinach or mixed greens, divide among 4 plates and top each with the beet salad. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the top. Serve immediately.